Nutella’s success spawned countless imitators, most trying to mimic Ferrero’s formula and a great many competing against the original on price. But Nutella also inspired a counter-tradition, primarily within Italy, of premium spreads that hewed more closely to the older, nobler traditions of gianduia. In the past few years, more of these premium spreads have made their way to the US market. In the spirit of the Decalogue for Gianduia Snobs, here are seven guidelines on what to look for (and avoid) when shopping for quality gianduia spreads.
Focus on Gianduia, Part 33: The Soul of Nutella
Ferrero’s transformation and international expansion of the Nutella brand over the past forty-seven years remains one of Italy’s greatest industrial success stories. But something was lost along the way.
Focus on Gianduia, Part 32: Michele Ferrero, Supercrema, and Nutella
Fate dealt Ferrero two blows with the flood of 1948 and, six months later, the death of its founder. The following year, the company reorganized under the direction of Ferrero’s widow Piera, his younger brother Giovanni, and his twenty-five-year-old son Michele (1).
Focus on Gianduia, Part 31: Ferrero and Giandujot
No discussion of gianduia would be complete without consideration of Ferrero SpA and its flagship product, Nutella. Though a detailed examination of the company and its products is beyond the scope of this series, a brief historical sketch will suffice as background for some more specific observations to come.
Focus on Gianduia, Part 12: Gianduia, the King of Carnival
Though Gianduia remained both puppet and political symbol through the 1860s, the character adopted a new function. Gianduia became the central figure in Turin’s celebration of Carnival—the setting for the probable first appearance of the confection that would come to bear his name.