Upscale Vegetarian
Date: Saturday, August 18 @ 18:21:57 PDT
Topic: Vegetarian



Being a vegetarian in Dallas isn't easy. Growing conditions are harsh, often making local, seasonal produce harder to come by. Options are limited by a prevailing, meat-centric food culture that naturally evolved from this state's historic symbiosis with cattle. This has changed somewhat, as the influx of Indians to Dallas over the past couple of decades has provided some affordable vegetarian options. (Fry a playing card in ghee and it'll taste good.) But where's a vegetarian to go when he wants to celebrate a special occasion or see true culinary artistry? Onward....


Recidivist readers of this site may be thinking, "Wait. You're not a vegetarian, are you?"

I am not. However, I do have some sympathy for the practice. I find arguments in favor of vegetarianism on ecological and economic grounds quite convincing. I'm bothered by the cruel conditions under which most meat is produced. My religious tradition encourages vegetarianism (or, at least, flexitarianism). George Harrison was always my favorite Beatle. And my doctor would probably push for involuntary commitment, if he knew how much meat I eat.

If I'm looking at it coolly, rationally, and honestly, I'm willing to admit that I should be a vegetarian, or something nigh unto it. But with one whiff of sizzling bacon, rationalization supplants rationality. So I remain an omnivore. And, despite occasional misgivings, I love it.


So, why am I about to post a series of reports on upscale vegetarian options in Dallas? What it boils down to, I think, is that I was curious to see if Dallas's best chefs could wow me--an inveterate meat-lover--with one hand tied behind their back.

What I quickly learned--and I'll come back to this in subsequent reports--is that ordering vegetarian is more than just a test of an executive chef's talent. It's a test of the waitstaff's knowledge and sensitivity, the kitchen's responsiveness to special demands, the depth of kitchen talent, the breadth and quality of the pantry, and much more. Dining as a vegetarian led me to reassess some familiar restaurants from an unfamiliar perspective.

Over time, I began to internalize that perspective. Service slips in early meals were noticed with detachment. In later meals, I took it more personally if, for instance, an amuse bouche with prosciutto was brought to my table after I had informed the waiter that I was a vegetarian.

Altruism for local vegetarians wasn't my aim. But I do think these reports may be of some value to vegetarians who live in or travel to Dallas. After all, if you're paying more than fifty bucks for a meal, you should have an excellent dining experience--regardless of any reasonable dietary restriction. And not all Dallas restaurants perform equally.

Will this be of any interest to omnivores? If not, it wouldn't be the first time I've written for a limited audience and won't be the last. But I can say that the reports were no chore to "research." I won't deny that it was a struggle to pass on pork belly, duck confit, rabbit rillettes, and like temptations. But my fortitude was often rewarded with pleasant surprises. Taking a holiday from meat forced me to order many dishes that I never would've ordered otherwise, but thoroughly enjoyed.



With one exception, I went to each restaurant multiple times. Except where noted, I made an advance reservation in which I communicated to the restaurant that I would need vegetarian options (with eggs and dairy being acceptable).

The restaurants will not be individually ranked, but will be placed in one of three categories: "Not Recommended," "Recommended (With Qualification)," and "Recommended." (Implicit in each of the categories is a trailing, "...for vegetarians.")









This article comes from Dallas Food
http://www.dallasfood.org

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