Dallas Food - Lanny's Alta Cocina Mexicana -- Revisited

About a month ago, I made my first visit to Lanny's Alta Cocina Mexicana, in Fort Worth. On the strength of that meal, I knew I'd be back. So on a weeknight last week, I returned (this time as a solo diner) and had a meal that in many ways surpassed the first. On to the food...

[Lanny's recently relocated to the Museum District, at 3405 W. 7th Street (817-850-9996). For details on a recent meal at the new location, click HERE.]

First Course:
The first course, as depicted above, was a selection of delicate tapas. On the left is a fried oyster with jalapeno and fennel cream. The execution was spot-on, delivering a crisp, greaseless breading, while leaving the oyster soft (not rubbery) inside. Neither of the sauce's flavor components overwhelmed the other or that of the oyster. Pictured in the middle is a foie gras hamburguesita with piloncillo-caramelized onions and pear compote. I was worried that the flavors might not be able to break through the bun; but they did, making for an excellent amuse bouche that I wouldn't mind repeating (soon). On the right is a flat bread topped with a cilantro-mint pesto, chorizo, and parmesan. Simple, but delicious. This was an excellent course.

Second Course:

The chef said the next course was making its debut that night. Hamachi ceviche with a roasted tomato and jalapeno vinaigrette, garnished with micro cilantro. The fish played the supporting role here, allowing the delicious vinaigrette (in actuality, more of a salsa) to shine.

Third Course:

The chef removed the lid of a small pumpkin to reveal the next course, a butternut squash and ancho chile soup with smoked ham hocks and chives. This is one of the most interesting soups I've had in a long time--sweet, but not cloying, and with subtle smoky and spicy undercurrents. I'd like to try this one at home.

Fourth Course:

This course is similar in appearance to one I had in my first meal at Lanny's. But while that crepe was stuffed with huitlacoche, this one was filled with lobster, goat cheese, roasted corn, and minced jalapeno, again served over a warm tomatillo cream sauce. A wonderful use of lobster. Great course.

Fifth Course:

This was a micro green salad, composed of petit mâche, pea tendrils, nasturtium, baby arugula, balsamic macerated teardrop tomatoes, Point Reyes blue cheese, and baby gala apple slices in a Meyer lemon vinaigrette. It may look like a throwaway course, but it was in the top tier for the night, flavor-wise. I wish all green salads were so good.

Sixth Course:

This course, seared quail with shiitake risotto and parmesan tuille, was very similar to one from the first meal (which used duck instead of quail). It was a crowd favorite in the prior meal and, judging from reactions at other tables, was well received this night also. Chef Lancarte said he nixed the nopales in the risotto this time, because the quality of cactus paddles he received that day wasn't up to snuff. While I missed the touch of tartness the nopales would have added to the risotto, I really enjoyed the tender, well-seasoned quail.

Seventh Course:

Next came pan roasted monkfish with ancho beurre noisette and cannellini "frijoles charros." I didn't enjoy this preparation quite as much as a similar one--with sautéed skate wing and a chipotle brown butter sauce--in the prior meal. That was in part because I preferred the more delicate flavor and texture of the skate. But, also, the frijoles/cassoulet seemed slightly overcooked, while I would have preferred a firmer bean texture. Those are quibbles, though, on what was still a very good course.

Eighth Course:

Number eight was pan seared pork loin in apple mole, with potato puree and apple mint garnish. A basic "meat & potatoes" course, but everything was flawless. The potatoes were creamy and flavorful. The pork was fork tender, on the rare side of medium. The mole was delicious, complex, and, with the apple component, surprising. And the mint meshed well with the mole. (I wonder, if we got a group together, if chef Lancarte would be willing to build a tasting menu around moles for us one night.) A solid finish to the savory courses.

Ninth Course:

The main dessert course was a black and white creme brulee, with a truffle on the side. The "black" was a layer of chocolate ganache across the bottom of the ramekin. The "white" was the vanilla custard above the ganache. While the flavor was acceptable, the custard was too firm, falling short of the creamy, silky ideal for the dessert. The truffle was chocolate with ancho chile and Myers rum--a lot of Myers rum. I prefer liqueur grace notes, rather than cymbal crashes, so this one didn't resonate with me. But for those who like the burn of alcohol in their desserts (as in rum balls), this would probably be a hit.

Tenth Course:

The meal ended with chef Lancarte's signature mignardises--miniature churros and Mexican wedding cookies served with a goat's milk cajeta. Apart from the consistency of the cajeta (which was thicker this time, more in line with expectations), this was identical to the same course in the prior meal. An fitting end to another superb menu.

Apart from a couple of minor bobbles (noted above), this was a fantastic meal. Service was warm and attentive. Chef Lancarte took time to describe courses to each table and answer any questions. Tables were decorated with hollowed pumpkins containing Fall-colored floral arrangements. Tea candles perched on protrusions and ledges in the stone walls provide an appealing glow. A pair of able mariachis entered the room, unbidden, to sing happy birthday to one of the guests. With warm, laid-back atmosphere, solid, unpretentious service, and top notch food, Lanny's offers a fine dining experience unlike anything in the Metroplex. I only wish the place had been open back when I lived in Fort Worth.