by Scott--DFW » Fri Jul 09, 2010 12:09 pm
This raises an interesting question. With the first Eataly location, the company aligned itself very closely with Slow Food (though I'm not sure whether there was actually an economic partnership involved). Slow Food marks and products are all over the place. Slow Food presidia items are featured throughout every section of the stores, including on the menus of the food stations (and the Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant in store number one). Menus and product lines aren't completely uniform across stores; each store highlights the cuisine, ingredients, cheeses, salumi, pasta, etc., of the region it serves. They're far more thoroughly local, seasonal, and traditional than any comparably sized market concept in the US.
Given that, is it possible to open an Eataly in NYC and have it be faithful to the same Slow Food principles that guide the Italian locations? Wouldn't the store need to shun the old country, instead focusing on Italian-American cuisine, American-made Italian-style cheeses, salumi, olive oils, dry pastas, etc.? Is there anything local, traditional, or slow involved, if most of the products are being transported--with Lord knows what kind of carbon footprint--over 4,000 miles onto foreign soil? If Slow Food International backs such a thing, it would seem like the height of hypocrisy.
Scott